TED Talks · Small thing Big idea

How surfboards connect us to nature

Riding a wave is like suddenly gaining speed and gliding at the same time, like walking on water, like flying.

Level: B1 · 55 sentences

Transcript

  1. Riding a wave is like suddenly gaining speed and gliding at the same time,
  2. like walking on water, like flying.
  3. I think it's really about being one with a natural phenomenon.
  4. The surfboard requires a lot of ergonomic thinking.
  5. How do I stand on it?
  6. How do I not slip off?
  7. But at the same time, it really has to work in that fluid environment.
  8. It's really considered for the rider in some areas.
  9. and for water and physics and others.
  10. Surfboarding is made out of a core element,
  11. which tends to be foam, which makes the board float.
  12. And the skin of the board is some kind of resin, epoxy, sometimes fiberglass.
  13. There often is also a stringer,
  14. a wood piece down the middle, which makes it stronger.
  15. The rocker is the curvature of the board in the front.
  16. That is important because performance,
  17. different tails will make the board react differently.
  18. So it's a lot about personal preference.
  19. Our understanding of surfing comes from when the Tahitians in 1200 AD brought it to Hawaii.
  20. So when James Cook arrived around 1780,
  21. he was mesmerized by hundreds of people in the water,
  22. children, women, men, surfing naked.
  23. Calvinist missionaries arrive and they're scandalized by it.
  24. It becomes an illegal activity.
  25. It becomes... The father of modern surfing is a Hawaiian named Duke Kahanamoku.
  26. He is an extraordinary swimmer, wins gold at the Olympics in 1912,
  27. goes around the world to show his swimming,
  28. but brings surfboards and demonstrates surfing.
  29. Imagine, people had never seen surfing before.
  30. Suddenly, some person from a faraway place is standing on water, riding on water.
  31. He comes back to Hawaii and heavy woodboard.
  32. Post Second World War, new materials and new technologies become available.
  33. Those make the board lighter, more accessible,
  34. cheaper, but it continues to be a custom object,
  35. something that is made specifically for a person or for a certain spot.
  36. It's a very symbiotic relationship between surfer and shaper.
  37. There's so many different criteria that affect the physics of how that surfboard is moving in water.
  38. A longboard is typically used on smaller waves.
  39. The writing has a lot of style.
  40. You can walk the board, put your toes over it, do a hang ten.
  41. board will be faster.
  42. They're harder to ride.
  43. They sink under the body.
  44. Board design comes at the intersection between those physical factors and really how I want to put myself in the water.
  45. It's an expression as much as it is a physical activity.
  46. The draw may be because water is so elusive.
  47. You can't fight it.
  48. You can't... The best I can do is recognize what it does.
  49. The surf may be big and getting bigger and surging while you're in the water.
  50. The elements are changing.
  51. The wind is coming up.
  52. You have to be in symbiosis with the environment.
  53. You need to look and feel for everything that's happening around you.
  54. And yet it's so short, 5, 8, 15 seconds.
  55. It's fleeting, but you have to go back to it.